On "La Cucina Americana"

Laurel Evans on the growing popularity of American cooking in Italy

Illustration of Laurel Evans by Daniela Bracco

The first McDonald’s in Italy opened its doors on March 20, 1986 in Piazza di Spagna. It was not warmly received. Roman politicians, celebrities, and even fashion designer Valentino protested the opening and warned of the “degradation” of Rome and the “Americanization” of Italian culture. There were numerous…