Domenica! You were so close to me, wish I had known, I would have invited you to lunch! Montecatini is only about 30 minutes from us. Please do come and visit us in San Miniato and see the enoteca/cooking school the next time you're in Tuscany (also: no tourists here!).
Domenica, I've heard many an Italian chef say they use canned tomatoes when making their sauces. It shocked me at first, but then they explained why. Do you and your fellow Italian cooks use canned tomatoes to make sauces? If so, do you recommend any particular brand?
Hi Mike, good question! I’m curious how the chefs responded to your question. Can you elaborate? I can tell you why I often use canned tomatoes. There are several reasons: Like all produce, tomatoes have a season. When tomatoes aren’t in season, I use canned ones for sauce. Also: not all tomatoes are sauce tomatoes. For example, I would not use a salad tomato such as a beefsteak to make sauce. It’s too watery. It’s great for salad, not for sauce. Another reason: there are some very high quality canned tomatoes available. Why not take advantage of that and save yourself the trouble of blanching, peeling, and seeding? And yet another reason: for many Italians, canned or bottled tomatoes means home-canned/bottled. Lots of families put up enough tomatoes at the end of summer to last all winter, so even if they’re using canned tomatoes, they are still using a product they made themselves. Does this make sense?
If I remember correctly, it's the simple fact that the canning process adds some "zest" to the tomatoes making them sweeter and more tomato-ie pungent! :)
Interesting! I would say that my favorite of all is when I make a small batch of sauce from summer tomatoes ~ not overly cooked ~ and then freeze it rather than can it. When I dig it out of the freezer in mid-winter and heat it up, it still has that sweet taste of fresh summer tomatoes.
My Nonna and Nonno used to go to Montecatini every summer. We went once, probably the mid-70s. While mom, Nonna & Nonno took the baths, we kids played in a huge beautiful pool outside. We stayed at a pensione across from a larger park where we’d play. I remember beautiful long lunches with pasta and who knows what else. Grandpa gave us wine once and we kids all needed naps. I’m sorry to hear Montecatini has faded. Thanks for writing about it and bringing back good memories.
The loss of independent shops and the decay of Lucca also sadden me. My last visit to Lucca was more than 10 years ago, but I don’t recall any blight of chain stores. I do remember seeing little handmade signs around Roma extolling the importance of independent shops and warning of the threat from chain stores. I hope Italy can turn aside this scourge that has ruined so many US downtowns.
Oh how wonderful that you got to visit Montecatini as a child. I can imagine how magical it must have seemed. It is a shame about the invasion of the chains; not limited to Italy either. I felt the same thing in London last year, Paris a few years ago, New York when I was there this past December. I feel like it's become a global scourge. :(
Sadly, I will miss you in Liguria and Piemonte this Fall - I shall be in these locations several weeks before you...
I've only visited Lucca once - in 2021, I think. I loved it there and went away thinking, that's a place I need to re-visit. Luckily, my visit wasn't nearly drowned in tourism as you experienced...but then again, the world was just beginning to take its first steps away from everything pandemic-related.
Those were strange days. I remember looking longingly at photos of an empty Rome during the and (perversely) wishing I were there. I'm glad Romans got their city to themselves for a little while, a silver lining, I guess, of that terrible time. I'm in Rome right now and it is sweltering and crowded. But I am still loving every moment here (back to Abruzzo tomorrow). Sorry I'll be missing you this fall!
That makes me so sad about Lucca. My first visit there was 22 years ago and it was so magical. Hopefully it still feels that way to those visiting for the first time today, even though it feels different for some of us.
Always such an enjoyable read, Domenica! I appreciate your immersive writing and perspective on the changes that time has wrought on some of the places you have visited—particularly the impact of over-tourism, chain stores and such, something I”ve observed in our travels as well.
Absolutely! We’ve definitely encountered mega crowds in Paris and in Barcelona, far worse than on previous visits, but also in some of our favorite U.S. national parks where years ago we would go to get AWAY from the hordes. In Sicily it didn’t seem as bad, especially in smaller towns, though some cities like Taormina and Cefalu have been discovered (but we enjoyed them anyway!).
I remember seeing articles about the spa over the years and thinking “wow” —that photo is definitely giving grey gardens vibes — but still beautiful. Hope you’re well, Domenica, the illustration of you is so great!
we will be staying in Montepulciano for a few days first of October. I try to only visit area lees occupied by tourists. I read Le Logge del Vignola is a great place to eat. Do you know of it? Recomend a couple of don't miss sites E
We will be heading to Salerno for two months, wife will be continuing her Italian language study there. Enjoy the city and its location
It's been about 30 years since I visited Montepulciano, so I don't have any useful information for you. I enjoyed my recent visit to Salerno, though I did not get the opportunity to visit the centro storico because I was always coming and going. I hope to get back. A two-month stay sounds ideal.
Interesting newsletter as always, although I’m sad to read about Lucca as I’m returning there later this year after a 30 year absence. I hope I can still find something of the charm I remember from so long ago.
The charm is there; it's just hard to get to. Hopefully, it won't be as packed when you visit. And, as with all these places, sometimes just venturing a few steps off the beaten path makes a big difference.
I luv Italian food and cooking. I've also come to luv most the meals that take almost no time to cook and involve minimal cleanup. What's your fave Italian dish that meets these requirements?
Great question, Wayne. Two things come to mind immediately: one is a really good panino, either focaccia or country bread, generously filled with prosciutto, mozzarella and sliced tomato or maybe pickled eggplant. Another is a simple cheese frittata with a green salad or tomato salad on the side.
Also, while I’ve been in Italy, I’ve been eating mostly no-cook meals: good local mozzarella, sheep’s milk ricotta and pecorino cheese, tomatoes, olives, prosciutto or porchetta, lots of summer fruit.
It’s definitely easier to eat this way in summer, especially in Italy.
I am so happy to read we’ve been the highlight of your Tuscany trip, so not surprised about Lucca, and I so agree with you about Montecatini! I’m really looking forward to meeting you again, here, in Abruzzo, or maybe on the other side of the Ocean! 🤗
Love this question. Possibly Sicily, which I haven't been to since I was 19, or Sardinia, which I have never been to. Or maybe up around the northeast--Veneto, Friuli, possibly Alto Adige. Can't wait to hear where you decide to go...
I really want to get to Sicily again too, but Laura is less keen. I also have not been back since I was that age—I think I was 20 or 21, on an Easter break from school in Florence. It was amazing then, and quite an adventure. I just finished Children of the Volcano, Ros Belford’s memoir of raising her two little girls on a Sicilian island, and it has whet my appetite even more. I have been thinking a lot about Naples too, but I think I’d rather do that as part of a longer trip.
We’ve never been anywhere in Abruzzo, or Liguria and those are both appealing.
Tuscany is always a pleasure (and my goodness lunch with Giulia and Tommaso was a definite highlight for us as well!!). We have not dipped into Umbria in years and years…and I am hearing it is less crowded.
And then there is the north! We both would like to see the Ravenna mosaics again.
Way too many things sound good!
Whatever we do (if we pull it off) we won’t run around to a million places.
I need to find that book. It sounds right up my alley. I really enjoyed my recent week in Umbria. Even Assisi, which had lots of tourists (though not an unbearable amount) is a joy to walk around, and the surrounding towns are wonderful. I especially like Trevi and Bevagna. Also, I keep meaning to return to Perugia, where my maternal grandfather was from, to explore it in more depth.
I think you’d love Ros’ book! She writes beautifully and I was completely intrigued and caught up in it.
It’s been a good summer for travel-ish family memoirs. Did you get to read Steve Hoffman’s book, A Season for That? I loved it so much.
We went to Perugia many years ago but it was one of those towns that’s colored by having stayed in a crummy hotel and getting lost etc— we should go back! We really loved Spoleto, and I’d love to explore more of those little towns.
I have a digital copy of Steve's book; apparently there is a hard copy waiting for me in the U.S. I don't love reading on the computer, but his book has kept me company during these weeks of travel. Loving it!
Not a question, but a comment. Lucca used to be one of my favorite places. Sadly, I felt exactly the same way as you did when we returned for a visit a few months ago.
I have completely enjoyed reading about your trek through southern Italy and Tuscany. Thank you for such a lovely description of all the towns and food you discovered.
I have an unrelated question about the Pizza Bianca/ Pizza Rossa recipe, you posted some months ago. I was reviewing the recipe and was wondering what your thoughts would be on using Caputo 00 chef’s flour in the recipe.
I look forward to making the pizza when the temperatures drop a bit!
Good question. I can't say for sure because I haven't tried it myself. However, I did find this thread on reddit in which someone did use it to make focaccia, with good results (scrolll down a bit in the thread for the mention of Caputo 00 chefs flour): https://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/67193/focaccia-flour
I might use a mix of that and a stronger bread or tipo 0 flour, though of course the only real way to know is to try it. I'm all for experimenting. If you give it a go, please let us know how it turns out.
An Italian friend of mine told me that he prefers La Molisana Durum Wheat Semolina for Pizza (link below), same type of flour that is used to make pasta.
Before I was using Caputo “00” Pizzeria soft wheat flour ( link below) not sure what is the difference with Caputo 00 chef’s flour.
Now I use a 50 50 mix of both flours, and I like it.
Also I use sourdough starter and not commercial yeast and hand stretch the dough 3 times and cold fermentation overnight.
I agree a mix of flours is the way to go, unless maybe you are making Neapolitan-style pizza. I'm an amateur when it comes to bread/pizza/dough, so I can only go by what I have experienced. I didn't know that La Molisana sells flour as well as pasta. I love their pasta; really high quality. I'll look for the flour in the supermarket while I am here in Italy. Thanks for the great tip!
Where would you suggest in Sicily as a place to base for about 10 days using local transportation including Palermo and Catania. Looking for some charm and fairly easy walkability. We want to “live like a local’ and go to markets and cook as well as take a few day trips.
I have to admit you've stumped me. It's been too many years since my first and only visit to Sicily. I was due to go back this summer but have had to postpone the trip until fall. I've heard that Cefalù, east of Palermo on the coast, is beautiful. But I'd feel disingenuous trying to give you any more specific recommendations.
Domenica! You were so close to me, wish I had known, I would have invited you to lunch! Montecatini is only about 30 minutes from us. Please do come and visit us in San Miniato and see the enoteca/cooking school the next time you're in Tuscany (also: no tourists here!).
Argh! I wish I had reached out, Emiko! I would love to visit. Next time for sure xx
Next time! Would love to see you and show you San Miniato :)
Montecatini sadly overlooked and neglected. It is truly a shame to see such potential go to waste.
I agree. It seems absurd that there was no way to prevent this.
Domenica, I've heard many an Italian chef say they use canned tomatoes when making their sauces. It shocked me at first, but then they explained why. Do you and your fellow Italian cooks use canned tomatoes to make sauces? If so, do you recommend any particular brand?
Hi Mike, good question! I’m curious how the chefs responded to your question. Can you elaborate? I can tell you why I often use canned tomatoes. There are several reasons: Like all produce, tomatoes have a season. When tomatoes aren’t in season, I use canned ones for sauce. Also: not all tomatoes are sauce tomatoes. For example, I would not use a salad tomato such as a beefsteak to make sauce. It’s too watery. It’s great for salad, not for sauce. Another reason: there are some very high quality canned tomatoes available. Why not take advantage of that and save yourself the trouble of blanching, peeling, and seeding? And yet another reason: for many Italians, canned or bottled tomatoes means home-canned/bottled. Lots of families put up enough tomatoes at the end of summer to last all winter, so even if they’re using canned tomatoes, they are still using a product they made themselves. Does this make sense?
If I remember correctly, it's the simple fact that the canning process adds some "zest" to the tomatoes making them sweeter and more tomato-ie pungent! :)
Interesting! I would say that my favorite of all is when I make a small batch of sauce from summer tomatoes ~ not overly cooked ~ and then freeze it rather than can it. When I dig it out of the freezer in mid-winter and heat it up, it still has that sweet taste of fresh summer tomatoes.
My Nonna and Nonno used to go to Montecatini every summer. We went once, probably the mid-70s. While mom, Nonna & Nonno took the baths, we kids played in a huge beautiful pool outside. We stayed at a pensione across from a larger park where we’d play. I remember beautiful long lunches with pasta and who knows what else. Grandpa gave us wine once and we kids all needed naps. I’m sorry to hear Montecatini has faded. Thanks for writing about it and bringing back good memories.
The loss of independent shops and the decay of Lucca also sadden me. My last visit to Lucca was more than 10 years ago, but I don’t recall any blight of chain stores. I do remember seeing little handmade signs around Roma extolling the importance of independent shops and warning of the threat from chain stores. I hope Italy can turn aside this scourge that has ruined so many US downtowns.
Oh how wonderful that you got to visit Montecatini as a child. I can imagine how magical it must have seemed. It is a shame about the invasion of the chains; not limited to Italy either. I felt the same thing in London last year, Paris a few years ago, New York when I was there this past December. I feel like it's become a global scourge. :(
Sadly, I will miss you in Liguria and Piemonte this Fall - I shall be in these locations several weeks before you...
I've only visited Lucca once - in 2021, I think. I loved it there and went away thinking, that's a place I need to re-visit. Luckily, my visit wasn't nearly drowned in tourism as you experienced...but then again, the world was just beginning to take its first steps away from everything pandemic-related.
Those were strange days. I remember looking longingly at photos of an empty Rome during the and (perversely) wishing I were there. I'm glad Romans got their city to themselves for a little while, a silver lining, I guess, of that terrible time. I'm in Rome right now and it is sweltering and crowded. But I am still loving every moment here (back to Abruzzo tomorrow). Sorry I'll be missing you this fall!
Have you found your perfect coffee location in Rome yet? I remember going to a fantastic spot near the Pantheon, but I can’t recall the name…
Could it have been Caffè Sant’ Eustachio? That is close to the Pantheon. There’s another famous one nearby as well ~ Tazza d’Oro
Tazza d’Oro…that’s it. I’ve been there several times, and I recall it being somewhat touristy, but damn, the coffee was wonderful!
That makes me so sad about Lucca. My first visit there was 22 years ago and it was so magical. Hopefully it still feels that way to those visiting for the first time today, even though it feels different for some of us.
Yes. It is such an extraordinary city, I can't help but feel those who visit even now will see that.
Always such an enjoyable read, Domenica! I appreciate your immersive writing and perspective on the changes that time has wrought on some of the places you have visited—particularly the impact of over-tourism, chain stores and such, something I”ve observed in our travels as well.
Thank you, Ruth! It's not limited to Italy, is it? I've felt the same about parts of Paris and London and New York; I'm sure you've felt it, too.
Absolutely! We’ve definitely encountered mega crowds in Paris and in Barcelona, far worse than on previous visits, but also in some of our favorite U.S. national parks where years ago we would go to get AWAY from the hordes. In Sicily it didn’t seem as bad, especially in smaller towns, though some cities like Taormina and Cefalu have been discovered (but we enjoyed them anyway!).
I remember seeing articles about the spa over the years and thinking “wow” —that photo is definitely giving grey gardens vibes — but still beautiful. Hope you’re well, Domenica, the illustration of you is so great!
Yes, I probably read those same articles! Sending you birthday hugs from here, Jolene xx
hello
we will be staying in Montepulciano for a few days first of October. I try to only visit area lees occupied by tourists. I read Le Logge del Vignola is a great place to eat. Do you know of it? Recomend a couple of don't miss sites E
We will be heading to Salerno for two months, wife will be continuing her Italian language study there. Enjoy the city and its location
Hi Mark,
It's been about 30 years since I visited Montepulciano, so I don't have any useful information for you. I enjoyed my recent visit to Salerno, though I did not get the opportunity to visit the centro storico because I was always coming and going. I hope to get back. A two-month stay sounds ideal.
Interesting newsletter as always, although I’m sad to read about Lucca as I’m returning there later this year after a 30 year absence. I hope I can still find something of the charm I remember from so long ago.
The charm is there; it's just hard to get to. Hopefully, it won't be as packed when you visit. And, as with all these places, sometimes just venturing a few steps off the beaten path makes a big difference.
I luv Italian food and cooking. I've also come to luv most the meals that take almost no time to cook and involve minimal cleanup. What's your fave Italian dish that meets these requirements?
Great question, Wayne. Two things come to mind immediately: one is a really good panino, either focaccia or country bread, generously filled with prosciutto, mozzarella and sliced tomato or maybe pickled eggplant. Another is a simple cheese frittata with a green salad or tomato salad on the side.
Also, while I’ve been in Italy, I’ve been eating mostly no-cook meals: good local mozzarella, sheep’s milk ricotta and pecorino cheese, tomatoes, olives, prosciutto or porchetta, lots of summer fruit.
It’s definitely easier to eat this way in summer, especially in Italy.
Guess I've been channeling you! Been making focaccia with various stuffings and toppings. Been making frittatas frequently. Luv them both . . . .
I am so happy to read we’ve been the highlight of your Tuscany trip, so not surprised about Lucca, and I so agree with you about Montecatini! I’m really looking forward to meeting you again, here, in Abruzzo, or maybe on the other side of the Ocean! 🤗
It was a wonderful lunch and visit. Vi aspetto negli Stati Uniti ❤️🌟✌️
I ask this question lightly because I KNOW it’s too open and there are too many answers but…
We are thinking of a mini trip, just ten days in fall. I’m so undecided about where to choose!
If you had a ten day tour to plan what would be your destination choices? (Mostly avoiding mass tourism).
Love this question. Possibly Sicily, which I haven't been to since I was 19, or Sardinia, which I have never been to. Or maybe up around the northeast--Veneto, Friuli, possibly Alto Adige. Can't wait to hear where you decide to go...
I really want to get to Sicily again too, but Laura is less keen. I also have not been back since I was that age—I think I was 20 or 21, on an Easter break from school in Florence. It was amazing then, and quite an adventure. I just finished Children of the Volcano, Ros Belford’s memoir of raising her two little girls on a Sicilian island, and it has whet my appetite even more. I have been thinking a lot about Naples too, but I think I’d rather do that as part of a longer trip.
We’ve never been anywhere in Abruzzo, or Liguria and those are both appealing.
Tuscany is always a pleasure (and my goodness lunch with Giulia and Tommaso was a definite highlight for us as well!!). We have not dipped into Umbria in years and years…and I am hearing it is less crowded.
And then there is the north! We both would like to see the Ravenna mosaics again.
Way too many things sound good!
Whatever we do (if we pull it off) we won’t run around to a million places.
I need to find that book. It sounds right up my alley. I really enjoyed my recent week in Umbria. Even Assisi, which had lots of tourists (though not an unbearable amount) is a joy to walk around, and the surrounding towns are wonderful. I especially like Trevi and Bevagna. Also, I keep meaning to return to Perugia, where my maternal grandfather was from, to explore it in more depth.
I think you’d love Ros’ book! She writes beautifully and I was completely intrigued and caught up in it.
It’s been a good summer for travel-ish family memoirs. Did you get to read Steve Hoffman’s book, A Season for That? I loved it so much.
We went to Perugia many years ago but it was one of those towns that’s colored by having stayed in a crummy hotel and getting lost etc— we should go back! We really loved Spoleto, and I’d love to explore more of those little towns.
I have a digital copy of Steve's book; apparently there is a hard copy waiting for me in the U.S. I don't love reading on the computer, but his book has kept me company during these weeks of travel. Loving it!
I hate reading on my iPad but I was totally able to suspended that for his book!
Not a question, but a comment. Lucca used to be one of my favorite places. Sadly, I felt exactly the same way as you did when we returned for a visit a few months ago.
It was jarring, wasn't it.
I have completely enjoyed reading about your trek through southern Italy and Tuscany. Thank you for such a lovely description of all the towns and food you discovered.
I have an unrelated question about the Pizza Bianca/ Pizza Rossa recipe, you posted some months ago. I was reviewing the recipe and was wondering what your thoughts would be on using Caputo 00 chef’s flour in the recipe.
I look forward to making the pizza when the temperatures drop a bit!
Good question. I can't say for sure because I haven't tried it myself. However, I did find this thread on reddit in which someone did use it to make focaccia, with good results (scrolll down a bit in the thread for the mention of Caputo 00 chefs flour): https://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/67193/focaccia-flour
I might use a mix of that and a stronger bread or tipo 0 flour, though of course the only real way to know is to try it. I'm all for experimenting. If you give it a go, please let us know how it turns out.
Saluto a tutti
An Italian friend of mine told me that he prefers La Molisana Durum Wheat Semolina for Pizza (link below), same type of flour that is used to make pasta.
Before I was using Caputo “00” Pizzeria soft wheat flour ( link below) not sure what is the difference with Caputo 00 chef’s flour.
Now I use a 50 50 mix of both flours, and I like it.
Also I use sourdough starter and not commercial yeast and hand stretch the dough 3 times and cold fermentation overnight.
https://www.lamolisana.it/en/recipes/how-to-make-pizza/
https://caputoflour.com/products/caputo-00-pizzeria
Ciao Luc,
I agree a mix of flours is the way to go, unless maybe you are making Neapolitan-style pizza. I'm an amateur when it comes to bread/pizza/dough, so I can only go by what I have experienced. I didn't know that La Molisana sells flour as well as pasta. I love their pasta; really high quality. I'll look for the flour in the supermarket while I am here in Italy. Thanks for the great tip!
Where would you suggest in Sicily as a place to base for about 10 days using local transportation including Palermo and Catania. Looking for some charm and fairly easy walkability. We want to “live like a local’ and go to markets and cook as well as take a few day trips.
Hi Barbara,
I have to admit you've stumped me. It's been too many years since my first and only visit to Sicily. I was due to go back this summer but have had to postpone the trip until fall. I've heard that Cefalù, east of Palermo on the coast, is beautiful. But I'd feel disingenuous trying to give you any more specific recommendations.