'Why must we produce fruit that tastes like candy? Why can't we produce fruit that tastes like fruit?' Such good questions, Domenica. As so often, I found myself nodding in agreement with you. It's so sad watching the beautiful rich variety of complex flavours that fruit possesses being narrowed down over the years by growers to simple sweetness.
I was worried I was sounding like the crank I am, but it really irks me. Oranges that are only sweet; strawberries as big as apricots with no flavor or juice, with pithy white interiors. Fruit bred for beauty over flavor, and/or to travel long distances. Not that there aren't some good cultivars out there, but the overall trend is depressing!
It’s funny I assumed those “cotton candy” grapes were trying to riff on the brief season of muscat grapes. I used to get so excited to see the muscats show up here in late spring (no idea where they come from!). Tried the cotton candy ones once and didn’t like them!
This cake is right up my alley, in fact when I saw it before reading it, it immediately made me think of schiacciata all'uva (often laced with anice too) and there you go! Must try, now that things are finally cooling off enough to turn on the oven.
The weather is turning here as well ~ most welcome! There’s something about grapes and anise together, isn’t there. Filled with warmth and autumnal appeal.
Here in Virginia, the melons were especially disappointing. I never did find one that was properly sweet and juicy. On the workshop (and my tours in general): All small groups--no buses--and we steer clear of areas plagued by overtourism. Happy to talk more at length if you like!
It’s been a long time since I’ve enjoyed a slice of Torta all’Uva – your version sounds delicious! I agree – supermarket grapes are a waste of money; I stopped getting them years ago... Flavored grapes? Are you kidding me...this is horrific!
Your grape focaccine recipe is on my must-make list...as is a vegan version of your Torta all’Uva con Anice e Sambuca.
Thank you, Jack. I'd be curious to know what you might use to veganize this. What might stand in for the ricotta? One of the recipes I used as inspiration, which I linked to, called for yogurt, so maybe a vegan yogurt? I tried a (milk) yogurt version but I liked the flavor of the cake with ricotta better.
The recipe appears straightforward enough to 'veganize.' The challenge in most cake recipes are the eggs, but that's usually no problem when adding binding agents, additional fat, and a touch more leavening. The only other consideration is the ricotta or yogurt. The yogurt adds a touch of acidity to the cake, and the ricotta adds more creaminess. Both ingredients are easily available in vegan version; soy yogurt to replace the milk yogurt, or a cashew-based ricotta to replace the ricotta. That should work in equal quantity replacements.
I'm off to Puglia this week, so the cake project will need to wait until I return...I shall make it to celebrate my birthday, albeit a week late!
Thanks for sharing the idea - I'm currently obsessed with the flavor of anise...
I was beginning to think that I was the only one who thought the new grape varieties were a mere shadow of the original ones. In Australia, as soon as they started growing them without seeds, all the flavour disappeared and they became big, crunchy and just sweet with no complexity at all. And now it’s almost impossible to find anything else.
I can never work out if we get these things because the consumer demands it or because growers/retailers decide this is what we want even if we don't know that's what we want!
I am all about doing something about too many people doing the exact same things bin the exact same places but I think we should shift our focus from the people doing the visiting and demand more from the people in charge of managing these places. The mayor of Venice for instance, lives on the mainland, is not against cruise ships, has not enforced or entertained any policies that would make living in Venice an option for young Venetians who have been forced out by the lure of short term holiday rentals (he once responded to a student saying they couldn't afford rent here with. then your don't deserve to live here)
Living in California where grapes are grown in such volume (including those cotton candy ones you so rightly scorn), it’s dismaying to see the lack of grape varieties here. I can only chalk it up to the mega-growers behind the fruit who are trying to maximize their dollars by marketing to the masses.
In Japan where my son lives, there are multiple delicious varieties of grapes—most with seeds—that taste amazing, cost a fortune, and are wrapped like precious gifts. Maybe that’s the tradeoff—cheap sameness vs pricy singularity.
Your cake sounds unusual and yummy. I can’t wait to try it – if I can find some small, soft and tasty grapes.
As for over-tourism, there aren’t any easy solutions, except to travel smarter— pick less popular destinations, wander off the beaten path, get up very early to visit the hotspots, and don’t feel like you have to do everything in the guidebook. We’ve learned this from making a lot of mistakes!
Thanks for another provocative and delicious post, Domenica!
'Why must we produce fruit that tastes like candy? Why can't we produce fruit that tastes like fruit?' Such good questions, Domenica. As so often, I found myself nodding in agreement with you. It's so sad watching the beautiful rich variety of complex flavours that fruit possesses being narrowed down over the years by growers to simple sweetness.
I was worried I was sounding like the crank I am, but it really irks me. Oranges that are only sweet; strawberries as big as apricots with no flavor or juice, with pithy white interiors. Fruit bred for beauty over flavor, and/or to travel long distances. Not that there aren't some good cultivars out there, but the overall trend is depressing!
It’s funny I assumed those “cotton candy” grapes were trying to riff on the brief season of muscat grapes. I used to get so excited to see the muscats show up here in late spring (no idea where they come from!). Tried the cotton candy ones once and didn’t like them!
I love the sound of this cake ✨
Those cotton candy grapes are heinous! The cake is not 😁
Curious if you like the moscato grapes?
The cake looks a definite treasure. I love your cakes w fruit!
I’m not sure I’ve actually had the grapes…just the wine, which I DO like.
This cake is right up my alley, in fact when I saw it before reading it, it immediately made me think of schiacciata all'uva (often laced with anice too) and there you go! Must try, now that things are finally cooling off enough to turn on the oven.
The weather is turning here as well ~ most welcome! There’s something about grapes and anise together, isn’t there. Filled with warmth and autumnal appeal.
1. Fruit overall has been disappointing this year, but grapes overwhelmingly so. Wish I could find the grapes you discovered!
2. Intriguing flavor pairing.
3. Overtourism in Italy and my desire to attend your workshop there. Oh, the irony.
Here in Virginia, the melons were especially disappointing. I never did find one that was properly sweet and juicy. On the workshop (and my tours in general): All small groups--no buses--and we steer clear of areas plagued by overtourism. Happy to talk more at length if you like!
It’s been a long time since I’ve enjoyed a slice of Torta all’Uva – your version sounds delicious! I agree – supermarket grapes are a waste of money; I stopped getting them years ago... Flavored grapes? Are you kidding me...this is horrific!
Your grape focaccine recipe is on my must-make list...as is a vegan version of your Torta all’Uva con Anice e Sambuca.
Thanks for another brilliant edition!
Thank you, Jack. I'd be curious to know what you might use to veganize this. What might stand in for the ricotta? One of the recipes I used as inspiration, which I linked to, called for yogurt, so maybe a vegan yogurt? I tried a (milk) yogurt version but I liked the flavor of the cake with ricotta better.
The recipe appears straightforward enough to 'veganize.' The challenge in most cake recipes are the eggs, but that's usually no problem when adding binding agents, additional fat, and a touch more leavening. The only other consideration is the ricotta or yogurt. The yogurt adds a touch of acidity to the cake, and the ricotta adds more creaminess. Both ingredients are easily available in vegan version; soy yogurt to replace the milk yogurt, or a cashew-based ricotta to replace the ricotta. That should work in equal quantity replacements.
I'm off to Puglia this week, so the cake project will need to wait until I return...I shall make it to celebrate my birthday, albeit a week late!
Thanks for sharing the idea - I'm currently obsessed with the flavor of anise...
Thanks for the explanation, Jack. Much appreciated. Enjoy Puglia!
I was beginning to think that I was the only one who thought the new grape varieties were a mere shadow of the original ones. In Australia, as soon as they started growing them without seeds, all the flavour disappeared and they became big, crunchy and just sweet with no complexity at all. And now it’s almost impossible to find anything else.
it's a nefarious trend. Really irks me. Are that many people really clamoring for less flavor??
I can never work out if we get these things because the consumer demands it or because growers/retailers decide this is what we want even if we don't know that's what we want!
I am all about doing something about too many people doing the exact same things bin the exact same places but I think we should shift our focus from the people doing the visiting and demand more from the people in charge of managing these places. The mayor of Venice for instance, lives on the mainland, is not against cruise ships, has not enforced or entertained any policies that would make living in Venice an option for young Venetians who have been forced out by the lure of short term holiday rentals (he once responded to a student saying they couldn't afford rent here with. then your don't deserve to live here)
Totally agree. Not much can be done if those in charge aren't on board and, in fact, are part of the problem.
Even Donna Leon moved from her Beloved Venice to Switzerland. Now thats saying something!
Exactly. Venice ~ or rather the powers that be in Venice ~ seem to be among the biggest offenders.
Living in California where grapes are grown in such volume (including those cotton candy ones you so rightly scorn), it’s dismaying to see the lack of grape varieties here. I can only chalk it up to the mega-growers behind the fruit who are trying to maximize their dollars by marketing to the masses.
In Japan where my son lives, there are multiple delicious varieties of grapes—most with seeds—that taste amazing, cost a fortune, and are wrapped like precious gifts. Maybe that’s the tradeoff—cheap sameness vs pricy singularity.
Your cake sounds unusual and yummy. I can’t wait to try it – if I can find some small, soft and tasty grapes.
As for over-tourism, there aren’t any easy solutions, except to travel smarter— pick less popular destinations, wander off the beaten path, get up very early to visit the hotspots, and don’t feel like you have to do everything in the guidebook. We’ve learned this from making a lot of mistakes!
Thanks for another provocative and delicious post, Domenica!
The cake looks perfect and I’m still wrapping my head around creating grapes 🍇 that taste like cotton candy.