A lovely thing about meeting Italians abroad is that if you ask them where exactly they're from, they will tell you what it's famous for. I knew someone from Bergamo, who told me that San Pellegrino was from near there. So I realized from the start that this was about *that* San Pellegrino, but this is much grander than what I was imagining.
Mammiano, an hour or so north of Florence. It's one of those small towns built on the side of a mountain--I always wondered how all the houses could "stick" to the steep slopes. My friends in Florence owned a home there and it was a joy to be there with them. Sometimes my task was walking the tiny narrow streets to the sheep farmer's home to pick up fresh pecorino or ricotta, depending on the day, soooo good. Hanging out the laundry was scary--if you dropped anything while hooking it to the line out the window it would have been gone down the mountain. I just looked up the town to check the spelling, and see that it's now gotten somewhat touristy. Granted, I was there long ago, but really, restaurants and hotels in Mammiano? Not then. Just what you've been talking about. Sigh. Always love your Sunday posts, thank you.
Sounds like you have good memories of the place. I always want these towns to thrive, but it seems like it’s hard to strike a happy medium between authentic and tourist destination.
Just got home from Iripina and Altomonte. Daniele hooked us up with you and Sarah Pompei. My first trip to Italy, and I am relishing the food and the people we met in the countryside. The communal feeling from all the locals we met was priceless. Ending my trip in Amalfi was visually breathtaking, but left me pining for more cultural impact .
Amalfi is always lovely but really just exists for tourism now. The cruise crowds are unsustainable. Hoping some places are able to find that sweet spot between tourism and authenticity. Not easy!
A great travel post and recipe, thank you! I’m sadden to hear about Montecatini Terme & Lucca. My first trip to Italy was loosely plan road trip through Tuscany in the early 90’s, with Montecatini a must see , as I was a loyal customer of the cosmetic line. It was still vibrant then and spell-bounding with the gardens, parks and Belle Epoch architecture. I was enchanted. Most of the cities I visited on that trip are “over touristed” as you have written. But I’m intrigued with San Pellegrino Termę, thank you.
Thank you! What a lovely travelogue! Our planned Italy trip got cancelled by COVID, and other life priorities have since delayed rescheduling it. Loved the photos. Looking forward to traveling in '25 or '26.
I always pack a bikini even in winter, because you never know if you will come across a hot spring!
Excellent idea. Noted!
Such beauty, in both your words and scenery!
PS: I love this sage recipe!
Thank you! Fried sage leaves are a revelation 🌿
My Italian MIL taught me to make the squash flower blossom batter the same way - but without egg. Thank you for sharing S Pellegrino with us 💕
SPT was such a lovely surprise. Yep, the egg/no egg is a big debate. I like the enriched batter, but that's just my personal preference!
A lovely thing about meeting Italians abroad is that if you ask them where exactly they're from, they will tell you what it's famous for. I knew someone from Bergamo, who told me that San Pellegrino was from near there. So I realized from the start that this was about *that* San Pellegrino, but this is much grander than what I was imagining.
It’s really a lovely town, much more so than what I was expecting.
I love fried sage leaves! Last week in Tuscany I also had fried malva (mallow?) leaves. More delicate than the sage, but held up well to frying
Yum ~ I’ve never tried those!
Mammiano, an hour or so north of Florence. It's one of those small towns built on the side of a mountain--I always wondered how all the houses could "stick" to the steep slopes. My friends in Florence owned a home there and it was a joy to be there with them. Sometimes my task was walking the tiny narrow streets to the sheep farmer's home to pick up fresh pecorino or ricotta, depending on the day, soooo good. Hanging out the laundry was scary--if you dropped anything while hooking it to the line out the window it would have been gone down the mountain. I just looked up the town to check the spelling, and see that it's now gotten somewhat touristy. Granted, I was there long ago, but really, restaurants and hotels in Mammiano? Not then. Just what you've been talking about. Sigh. Always love your Sunday posts, thank you.
Sounds like you have good memories of the place. I always want these towns to thrive, but it seems like it’s hard to strike a happy medium between authentic and tourist destination.
I look forward to my Sunday read because I know I
wull smile the whole time! I love squash blossoms.
The batter sounds great! I do have LOTS of cauliflower!
The batter works great with cauliflower. Just make sure the pieces are cut into smallish florets so that they cook properly.
This is fabulous! Now I want to watch 8 1/2!!!
Haha such a bizarre movie. He was one of a kind!
I want to go to the spa! 😆
Just got home from Iripina and Altomonte. Daniele hooked us up with you and Sarah Pompei. My first trip to Italy, and I am relishing the food and the people we met in the countryside. The communal feeling from all the locals we met was priceless. Ending my trip in Amalfi was visually breathtaking, but left me pining for more cultural impact .
Amalfi is always lovely but really just exists for tourism now. The cruise crowds are unsustainable. Hoping some places are able to find that sweet spot between tourism and authenticity. Not easy!
A great travel post and recipe, thank you! I’m sadden to hear about Montecatini Terme & Lucca. My first trip to Italy was loosely plan road trip through Tuscany in the early 90’s, with Montecatini a must see , as I was a loyal customer of the cosmetic line. It was still vibrant then and spell-bounding with the gardens, parks and Belle Epoch architecture. I was enchanted. Most of the cities I visited on that trip are “over touristed” as you have written. But I’m intrigued with San Pellegrino Termę, thank you.
I do hope Montecatini is able to stage a comeback. Such a lovely historical town.
Wonderful. Recipe saved for the days I can find 🌼🌼🌼 again.
I so enjoyed this stroll around with you! Those deco touches are ✨
Will have to think about the most surprising—can’t wait to ask L over lunch. To be continued!
Looking forward to hearing what it is!
I cant't wait to read your new book, Domenica! Lovely article, as usual.
Thank you, Elisa!
Thank you! What a lovely travelogue! Our planned Italy trip got cancelled by COVID, and other life priorities have since delayed rescheduling it. Loved the photos. Looking forward to traveling in '25 or '26.
Thanks, Tom. Covid derailed so much. In the upside, much to look forward to!