My mother was not Sicilian, but she made excellent caponata, the classic sweet and sour version with fried eggplant cubes. She made another classic Sicilian dish, too: zucca in agrodolce, or sweet and sour pumpkin, the thin wedges of pumpkin—winter squash, really—fried in olive oil and seasoned with that same duo of vinegar and sugar, plus garlic and mi…
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