Spaghetti al Pomodoro
Italians pride themselves on their emphatically regional cuisine. But if a national dish did exist, it might be pasta al pomodoro.
After all, what is more Italian than a nice dish of spaghetti or rigatoni tossed with fresh tomato sauce, perfumed with basil, and garnished with a shower of Parmigiano cheese? Not only does pasta al pomodoro contain all those quintessentially Italian ingredients, but it also comprises the colors of the Italian flag.
And although it is embraced by Italians everywhere, pasta al pomodoro is from Naples. This makes perfect sense; after all, Naples is where dried pasta originated, in the 19th century. And it is also where San Marzano tomatoes, widely considered to be the best tomatoes for sauce, are grown.
Spaghetti al pomodoro is the first pasta dish I learned to make growing up, and it’s still one of my preferred comfort foods.
Makes 4 to 6 servings
INGREDIENTS
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 clove garlic, lightly crushed
Pinch of crushed red pepper (optional)
One 28-ounce (793 g) can whole peeled tomatoes
Fine sea salt
1 branch fresh basil, plus a handful (5) fresh basil leaves; or 10 fresh basil leaves
1 pound (500 g) spaghetti or other packaged pasta
Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, for serving
INSTRUCTIONS
1. Heat the oil and garlic in a large saucepan over medium-low heat until the garlic begins to sizzle, about 2 minutes. Press down on it to release its flavor but don’t let it brown. Stir in a pinch of crushed red pepper. Remove and discard the garlic or leave it in—your choice.
2. Pour in the tomatoes and their juice. Watch for spatters as the tomatoes hit the oil. Use a potato masher or sturdy wooden spoon or silicon spatula to break up the tomatoes. Season with 1/2 teaspoon salt and raise the heat to medium-high. Bring the tomatoes to a boil, then lower the heat to medium-low or low to maintain a very gentle simmer. Cover the pan partially with a lid and cook, stirring every now and then, for 35 to 40 minutes, until the tomatoes have darkened in color and the sauce has thickened. The oil should be pooling on the surface. If the sauce thickens too much before it tastes done, add a splash of water. When it’s finished cooking, turn off the heat and let sit for 10 minutes to cool.
3. This is optional for those who (like me) generally prefer a smoother sauce. Transfer the sauce to a food mill fitted with the disk with the smallest holes and pass the tomatoes through the mill into a bowl. Or, press the tomatoes through a sieve or strainer to make a smooth sauce. Return the sauce to the pan and add another pinch of salt, if needed. Stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Lay a branch of basil on top of the sauce and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Or scatter about 5 basil leaves into the pan. Stir the sauce (the basil will wilt into the sauce) and cook gently for about 15 minutes, until infused with the flavor of the basil. Turn off the heat and remove and discard the branch of basil and the garlic, if not already discarded. Tear up and add a few more fresh basil leaves if you like. Cover the pan to keep the sauce warm.
4. Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil and salt it generously. Drop in the pasta and cook according to the package instructions until just al dente. Use a pasta fork, tongs, or a skimmer to transfer the pasta directly to the pan with the sauce. Add a splash of starchy cooking water and turn the heat under the pan on to low. Cook, tossing pasta and sauce together, for about 2 minutes, or until the noodles are cooked and well coated with the sauce.
5. Transfer the pasta to a serving bowl or individual bowls and spoon any sauce left in the pan on top. Sprinkle with Parmigiano cheese and serve.
